Sunday, April 05, 2009
Life, Travel, In this Issue...

Biloxi

Relax on the Mississippi Gulf Coast

By Hope S. Philbrick

    After enjoying a professional spa treatment while on vacation, it’s never quite a vacation again without a spa treatment on the itinerary. Even more indulgent is a luxurious full day of pampering at the spa instead of a massage here or pedicure there. At the 20,000-square-foot Beau Rivage Spa and Salon in Biloxi, Miss., unable to choose just one treatment from the list of more than 70 options, I sprung for three: the zen trilogy body wrap, caviar-and-pearl facial and signature manicure. Each experience coaxed me deeper into relaxation. By the end of that heavenly day, with (nearly) every inch of me thoroughly polished, moisturized and massaged, I floated out of the spa, up to my spacious guest room and climbed into bed to sleep like I’d never slept before.

    The next morning, after pulling back the drapes and gazing for awhile at the Gulf of Mexico, I was confronted with a mild stressor: What should I choose to do among the dozens of available options, many just an elevator ride away? And then I sank back into a plush chair and procrastinated. Ah, the pleasures of a vacation.

    If you haven’t visited the Mississippi Gulf Coast region since Hurricane Katrina, you may be thinking, “Vacation in Biloxi? Really?”

Yes. If there’s one thing that locals want you to know about the Mississippi Gulf Coast, it’s this: “We are open for business,” says Craig Ray, director of the Mississippi Development Authority Tourism Division. That news may come as a surprise when you consider that Hurricane Katrina hit on Aug. 29, 2005, devastating a 90,000-square-mile area over the course of 12 hours with winds of up to 175 miles per hour and a 35-foot high storm surge of ocean water, on top of which rode 17-foot waves. More than 65,000 buildings were lost, 600 of which were listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and hundreds of thousands more were damaged. Hundreds of lives were lost. Yet recovery began almost immediately. In fact, Beau Rivage re-opened on the one-year anniversary of Hurricane Katrina, all spiffed up after a $550 million renovation.

At 32 stories and 3.2 million square feet, Beau Rivage is the tallest and largest building in Mississippi. In addition to the spa and salon, it boasts 12 restaurants, four lounges and bars, 12 boutique shops, a pool, a theater and a state-of-the-art casino with 93 table games, 2,100 slot machines, 230 video poker games and a 16-table poker room. There’s also a high-roller area with 10 blackjack tables, 100 slot machines and a table that flips between roulette and baccarat.

Tourism contributes $6.5 billion to Mississippi’s economy each year—a third of that figure earned in the Gulf Coast region alone. Knowing this, I felt obligated to get out of my room and do what I could to help stimulate the economy.

One option available to guests of Beau Rivage is Fallen Oak Golf Course. Designed by Tom Fazio, the 18-hole, par-72 course boasts rolling greens, dramatic bunkers, thousands of trees and five sets of tees for all levels of golf, from 7,486 yards to 5,300 yards, according to John Hurt, a golf pro at Fallen Oak. “We try to make it as comfortable and slow-paced an environment as we can,” he says. The facility also houses a driving range, short game range, and practice chipping, putting and sand areas. Service is top-notch: For example, upon arrival I found that a locker had been reserved for me with a personalized nameplate.

In the evening, I headed to the 1,550-seat Beau Rivage Theatre to see “Y,” a fast-paced show that alternated routines by China’s Hebei Acrobatic Troupe and the Russian dance company, Todes. With its upbeat music, adrenaline-pumping choreography, elaborate costumes and dynamic effects, the 80-minute show was well worth its under-$30 ticket prices. (Upcoming shows include Lord of the Dance, Jay Leno and Crosby, Stills & Nash. Prices vary.)

At BR Prime, I ended the day with a delicious meal of seafood salad, pork rack with mitake mushrooms and sweet potato gratin with a decadent chocolate dessert. After all, a vacation could never be a vacation without chocolate! SP