Sunday, September 27, 2009
Food, In this Issue..., Wine, Beer & Spirits

Getting naked with Bordeaux

Let’s just take it all off: the fancy name and the appellation, and get to what’s in the bottle

By Katie Kelly Bell

Sometimes I’m just a wine wimp. I enter a wine store and sidle up to the old familiar—labels I can read without an interpreter, from a region I can picture in my mind. I confess to peeking over the aisle at the French wines. They intrigue me, but those Bordeaux bottles stand at attention, imposing and serious with their fancy chateaux names, and I’m daunted.

Yet I’ve always known better than to judge a book by its cover, and Bordeaux wines are no exception. Collectors chase down rare vintages with passion. Centuries of wine drinkers have praised the region (a recent archaeological dig in the town of Bordeaux unearthed ancient remains of winemaking from the 7th century B.C.). Clearly, something magical is going on in this sliver of French countryside just five hours south of Paris. Grown in soils ranging from gravelly to clay, these wines are wonderful with a wide variety of foods, yet they can be enjoyed alone and they all posses a unique sense of place. In short, if you drink wine, you’d better start experimenting with Bordeaux, or you’ll be missing out.

Learning about Bordeaux is a lifetime pursuit, so we’ll just keep it simple for now. Let’s start with the fact that only 10 percent of Bordeaux wines are in the “collector’s class’” (read: You can’t afford it). The remaining 90 percent of the stuff is approachable, affordable and delightful. Reds are made primarily from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet Franc, while whites are mainly sauvignon blanc and Semillon.

Divided into 57 appellations (small wine-growing regions), these wines are most approachable by varietal. Bear in mind that the modus operandi in Bordeaux is all about the blend. Very few wines are 100 percent of any one grape, but are rather blended with other varietals to achieve balance and quality. This is the defining aspect of Bordeaux, and what makes its wine so classic and frankly, so damn good.

MERLOT LOVERS
Merlot and cabernet Franc do well in the clay soil of St. Émilion and Pomerol appellations. Mind you, this will not be a California-style fruit bomb experience. Rather, these Merlot-centric blends tend toward civilized restraint, with layers of chocolate, spice, and leather, along with red fruits. Try: Clos du Clocher, Château Joanin Becot, Château Grand Mayne.

CABERNET LOVERS
The gravelly soil of the Médoc is most hospitable to cabernet sauvignon (it actually originated in Bordeaux). Wines are crafted as blends of cabernet, merlot and cabernet Franc, and possess tremendous aging potential. Try: Château Paloumey, Château La Tour Bessan, Château du Taillan or Château Loudenne.

WHITES
Wines from the Graves region of Bordeaux are a fabulous, refreshing treat. Mixed with differing amounts of semillon and sauvignon blanc, these blends marry the creaminess of semillon with the kick of sauvignon, really a perfect wine. They’ll also play well with food, specifically oysters. Try: Château Malartic-Lagravière or Château Smith Haut Lafite.

SWEET
Cheese lovers, just put down the red wine and open up a Sauternes. These opulent wines are derived from grapes that acquire noble rot, which is really just mold that ultimately imparts a honeyed richness to the wine. Sauternes also posses acidity, so the wines are not cloying. Try: Château Nairac, Château d’Arche. SP