Sunday, October 18, 2009
Food, Recipes, Atlanta

Skating by

Crispy salt-and-pepper skate at Spice Market

Photos/courtesy of Spice Market

By Ian Winslade

The highlight of this dish is its ability to remain crispy and fresh between preparation and serving; this makes it excellent for entertaining at home. The salt-and-pepper skate can be a somewhat challenging dish. However, when you follow a few simple tips, the rewarding outcome is well worth the time. For this dish, the batter is everything. It must be carefully measured and mixed at the last minute. If the batter mixture is left unused for longer than 20 minutes, it should be thrown out so you do not to risk the quality and crispness of the skate.

When preparing in the kitchen at Spice Market, we heat the oil to 400 degrees F., but I would recommend 375 degrees F. when preparing at home. The oil must be fresh and hot, and be sure to be armed with plenty of paper towels for blotting. Color is of the utmost importance when preparing the ginger, garlic and black bean crumbs. Make sure to remove the beans from the heat when they are one degree of color from the final outcome, which means take them out when they are a light golden brown and they will continue to color out of the heat to a dark golden brown. If you have room for the many layers of preparation in your kitchen, this dish is excellent for large parties. Between preparation and serving, you can hold the skate in a 300 degree F. oven.

My time at Spice Market and Market has allowed me to merge my beliefs with those of Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s, bringing full circle our shared interest in world-class inspired cuisine. A celebration of Southeast Asian sensuality, Spice Market features piquant elevations of the region’s street cuisine served in a casual, exotic atmosphere. SP
Ian Winslade is the chef de cuisine at Spice Market restaurant, located in the W Atlanta-Midtown at 188 14th St. NE. 404-549-5450. www.spicemarketatlanta.com.

Crispy Salt-and-Pepper Skate, Thai Basil and Lime

Serves 8

TEMPURA BATTER

Ingredients:                  

• (wet)
• 1 1/4 cups cold water    
• 1 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
• 1 1/2 tablespoons sesame oil     
• 2 1/2 teaspoons grapeseed oil  
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt    
• (dry)
• 1 1/4 cups rice flour      
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda   
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder

Instructions:

Put the wet ingredients in a bowl, and add all the dry ingredients. Gently mix until smooth. This batter is good for only 1 hour. It must be made fresh every hour.

SALT AND PEPPER MIX

Ingredients:

• 3/4 cup kosher salt    
• 1/2 cup white pepper, finely ground

Instructions:

Mix well.                

GINGER, GARLIC AND 
BLACK BEAN CRUMBS     

Ingredients:

• 3/4 cup fermented black beans, 
chopped fine
• 2 teaspoons dried Thai chili, chopped fine
• 3 1/4 cup grapeseed oil  

Instructions:

Mix beans and chili well. Put in a wok and cover with the oil. Fry on medium high until crumbs are crispy. Strain through a sieve, then blot well on plenty of paper towels.                                         

GARLIC GINGER CRUMBS

Ingredients:

• 1 3/4 cup ginger peeled, brunoise
• 1/2 cup garlic minced

Instructions:

Deep fry until golden brown. Dry on absorbent paper. Mix 2 parts ginger crumbs to 1 part black bean crumbs and reserve for service.              

GINGER LIME EMULSION

Ingredients:

• 1 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice      
• 5 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 4 tablespoons shaoxing      
• 1 3/4 cup young ginger, peeled and sliced
• 2 teaspoons kaffir lime leaves      
• 2 1/2 tablespoons salt   
• 3 teaspoons serrano chili   
• 9 egg yolks
• 1 1/2 cups basil oil       

Instructions:

Puree all EXCEPT basil oil and egg yolks until smooth. Pass through a chinois pushing for total extraction. There should be 2 1/2 cups of juice. For this amount, combine with the yolks in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Put the bowl over medium heat. With a large balloon whisk, whip until foam is thick and very hot to the touch. Be careful not to scramble the yolks; move the bowl on and off the heat as necessary. Whisk in the basil oil. Load into siphon with three charges, and keep cold.              

BASIL OIL

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup basil leaves    
• 2 1/2 cups grapeseed oil cold
• 2 teaspoons salt

Instructions:

Puree until completely smooth. Stir in a bowl over ice until cold. Then strain through a chinois pushing for total extraction. Let settle in a quart container for 10 minutes, and pour off the oil without the sediment.

FINISHING THE SKATE:

Dredge skate well in rice flour, and pat off excess. Coat well in tempura batter, and fry at 375 degrees F. until golden and crispy. Blot on paper towels and season with salt and white pepper mix. Serve with limes (washed and zested on microplane), Thai basil (wide chiffonade), iceberg lettuce (diced) and green finger chili (cut in rings).